| 解説 | パーカーポイント: 95点
予想される飲み頃：NA
Schaefer’s 2006 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Beerenauslese returns us to the toasted nuttiness that so often characterizes this site. Baked, caramelized apple, grilled pineapple, dried apricot, and nut brittle inform a palate that is at the same time so remarkably delicate and so sizzlingly marked by botrytis that it suggests a citrus parfait laced with white pepper and horseradish. I imagine a sort of scouring of the palate taking place by the action of citrus, botrytis, and fine slate particles. And talk about “penetrating”: this wine makes my nostrils flair and my eyes fly open. “Had we gone for Trockenbeerenauslese ? and you could basically tell what it would have been like by tasting the first fraction of the press ?” explains Willi Schaefer, “it would have become more concentrated, but not more interesting, because probably the acidity would have been covered over by its fullness and sweetness, and it would have become heavier, which would not have pleased me.” The balance of this Beerenauslese indeed seems close to perfect, but this intensely active wine is positively restless on the palate, and possibly many years away from more harmonious interplay.
(179, The Wine Advocate 30th Oct 2008)
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